Setting the Standard

“When I first saw Iñi Ameriketan, I really liked the line,” said 18 year old Bizikia, Spain climber Ainhize Belar. “I didn’t think twice.”  That moment of attraction and then decisiveness cemented Belar’s already strong resume. 

Belar began climbing over a decade ago when her father took the then 8-year old to the crag. She progressed quickly, sending hard routes in Valdegobia, Etxauri, and Onate. At the latter area’s Korea Sector, she climbed Honky Tonky  (8c) and then Honky Mix (8c+). “Repeating the route that became the world’s first female 8c+  by Josune Bereziartu  was something incredible,” Belar said of climbing Honky Mix. 

“Her accomplishments have had a very significant impact on the climbing community, as they have challenged stereotypes and, without a doubt, opened the door for many other female climbers to keep dreaming big,” said Belar, who like Berezartu also onsighted 8b+ with her ascent of  Txirrin txirran at La Leze. By following in Bereziartu’s footsteps, Belar was poised to push the standards of hard climbing. That came with her move toward the Baltzola Cave.

 With nearly 100 routes from 7b+ to 9b and a fifteen minute approach, the Baltzola Cave in Urkiola Natural Park provided an excellent opportunity for Belar to push her climbing

“I saw that it was a route with a lot of history,” Belar said of Iñi Ameriketan Íñigo Basterra equipped the line in 1995 and Rikar Otegui made the first ascent in 2002. Since then, Patxi Usobiaga, Adam Ondra, and Iban Larrion have repeated the route and it’s reached a consensus grade of 9a+.  

Belar first tried the physical, strength endurance route in February, during her second year of high school. The line tackles the steep belly of the cave, moving through a series of limestone crimps to a headwall, where things ease but requires a steady head. Belar knew that linking everything from the start would be difficult. In late April, she managed to climb it with a fall. She was close but weather came in and the route started to seep. 

Belar waited for the conditions of the cave to improve, climbing on it occasionally to stay in shape. In early September, she tried the route after her vacation, performing better than usual. She fought through the hardest part and reached the vertical section. “It was key to keep my head in check to get to the top,” Belar said. “The encouragement from those below also helped!”

Belar gained significant momentum from sending Iñi Ameriketan  “A couple of years ago, I wasn’t able to climb at a crag like Baltzola and now I’ve been able to climb a route like this,” Belar said. “Seeing that evolution as a climber is super cool.” Her development allowed her to quickly send Celedon (9a) at La Leze and make a few hard redpoints on a recent trip to Terradets. Belar’s determined to search for her limits, trying hard routes around her home and across Spain. 

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Belar’s Tick List

• Iñi Ameriketan (9a+), Baltzola, Spain – first Spanish 9a+
• Celedon (9a), La Leze, Spain
• Begi Puntúan (9a), Etxauri, Spain – first female ascent
• Honky Mix (8c+), Araotz, Spain – first female 8c+ by Josune Bereziartu 2000
• Honky Tonky (8c), Araotz, Spain – first female 8c by Josune Bereziartu 1998
• Coma Sant Pere 8c+, Margalef, Spain
• Txirrin txirran (8b+) O.S, La Leze, Spain
• Wallstreet (8c), Frankenjura, Germany – first 8c in sport climbing history by Wolfgang Güllich

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